Wednesday, September 26, 2012

Most overrated East Village eatery? Best cheap eats? Q-n-A with The Village Voice's Robert Sietsema

In a city full of food writers and restaurant critics, Robert Sietsema stands out as my favorite. Sietsema started at The Village Voice in 1993, and continues to be an adventurous writer who will delve into all sorts of genres and locations, from the latest Yemeni addition to Brooklyn's Atlantic Avenue to sampling the water melon with fish stomach in Chinatown's Fujianese neighborhood. He can be scholarly without sounding like an asshole. He can be downmarket without seeming as if he's slumming it with his artisanal buddies.

He's good for a rant too, such as his piece titled "Mayor Bloomberg's Jihad Against Salt." He's also particularly strong on the cheap eats front, and, well, I've discovered a lot of far-flung places thanks to his work.

Sietsema, who moved to NYC in 1977, answered a few questions for me via email on the East Village dining scene.

What new(ish) East Village restaurants are you particularly pleased with?
Masak, a sleeper bistro on East 13th (Remember when the rents used to be depressed on 13th Street because nobody wanted to live there because of the number?) that serves a fancified Singaporean menu

[Masak]

Sao Mai, one of the best Vietnamese cafes in the city, with killer pho

Sabor A Mexico, a taqueria started by immigrants from Guerrero, with beer

[Sabor A Mexico]

Il Buco Alimentari & Vineria, very nice small dishes, pleasant space, but a little pricey

Mile End Sandwich, nice addition to the myriad sandwich possibilities in the East Village.

[Life Cafe from 2010]

Most overrated and underrated East Village restaurants?
The most overrated restaurant of all time was Life Café, which closed somewhat unceremoniously not too long ago. I ate there several times during its long existence — fueled by the musical "Rent" — and always had a bad meal. That kind of awful hippie cooking is now thankfully nearly gone from the nabe.

I think Veselka is also vastly overrated — and comparatively expensive, too. Not sure how it established its reputation, but a couple decades ago it was only one of over a dozen cheap Polish and Ukrainian places clustered on the avenues. Now most of them are gone and it remains. The food has always been decidedly lackluster, but maybe the late-night hours made it the place to hang.

Underrated? Lots of good Japanese food that gets ignored, some it rather formulaic, but often cheap. Natori and Sapporo East are two good old-timers with sushi much better than you’d expect, both historic refuges for cash-strapped daters.

Still mourn the loss of Vandaag, the only Dutch resto in town, and offering very nice food, the kind you make your parents pay for when they visit New York. Never got enough traction (that corner has been a problem for years), and the sandwich and bakery window they tried to install at the last minute in the back was pretty much a disaster.

Best cheap option in the East Village?
Downtown Bakery is a gem, not too comfortable but with great southern Mexican food. Ramen Setagaya is one of the city’s best noodle joints. Xi’an Famous Foods for some off-the-wall, anti-rice northern Chinese (with plenty of chiles).

I'm very fond of Stromboli’s, since it was the place I often went post-gig when I was a rock musician. You always bond permanently with the first pizza you try, and that was my first slice when I came to New York. The sauce is tangy and a little sweet. Hate the weird space they added on, though.

[Archival photo via]

How do you think East Village restaurants stack up against those in other neighborhoods these days?
The East Village is one of the 10 greatest restaurant neighborhoods in the city; it may be in the top 5. Lots of crappy little storefronts that, even today, are not as expensive as you might imagine, and become home to little ma-and-pa places.

Also good for mid-range bistro-level restaurants and even fine dining. A place where empires can be built, too, and filled with quirky food choices. Lots for vegetarians and carnivores alike, and every time you go around a corner, you see a new place. Japanese presence has long been a boon to the neighborhood, and the East Village also has its very own celebrity chefs. Enough restaurants crowded together there to fill a medium-size Midwestern City. And everyone eats out. Every meal.

Most annoying food trend?
For a long long time along with other neighborhoods in the city, the East Village was able to resist national franchises. I can remember when the McDonald’s on First Avenue was the only such franchise in the neighborhood.

But thanks to Bloomberg — who has no reverence for food culture and culture in general — and the rapacious landlords who are his most eager supporters, these franchises have been flooding the neighborhood in the last five years. Franchises pay employees nothing, source their foods out of state, and undersell small local restaurants. They must be resisted at all costs. And besides, the food they sell sucks.

Did I just see a Long John Silvers go in on First Avenue? Jeez!

[Photo by James Campbell Taylor]

What's your guilty food pleasure?
Egg cream at Gem Spa plus french fries at Pommes Frites

35 comments:

argie said...

I haven't tried Masak yet, but I saw there is a Groupon for it going on right now, in case anyone's interested...

Hey19 said...

Sietsema! Who got the keys to my Bimmma.

RS is a great food critic, always enjoy his insight. I too lament Vandaag. Downtown Bakery II is good, but I dont think Puebla gets enough attention.

I would say groupon is also an annoying food trend, but if it looks like a good deal go for it. I havent been to Masak. Chains are clearly the worst trend, but also an easy answer.

abrod said...

Never really read Sietsema very closely, but I gotta say he's spot-on about Vandaag, Natori, Downtown Bakery. Huh.

EV Grieve said...

I just fucking accidentally deleted the comment from anon who said... "He's right on about Life Cafe and Veselka. [Something else here] I'm glad Life is gone"

I'm sorry about that.

pinhead said...

Nice piece--Lot's of great tips!

Stromboli was my late night, post-gig slice too (Five Roses closed early), and the recent addition kinda ruined it for me.

On national chains, we chased away Chili's, Pizzeria Uno, and Popeye's, so it can be done. (Am I missing any?) Subway is gonna be tough, and Starbucks is here to stay. McDonald's hasn't built anything new in a while, hope they're done.

shmnyc said...

You couldn't pay me to read the Voice.

esquared™ said...

The secret's out on Natori. Damn!

I disagree on Life Cafe being the most overrated. It's a neighborhood staple where people went to hang out, think, read, write, pass time, get nourishment on a low budget; it wasn't necessarily for dining out. Same goes for Veselka (of back then). I do, however, agree that both Life Cafe and Veselka had become overrated once they were featured in Rent and Gossip Girls, respectively.

Momofuku ko is overrated. Chinatown has better, and inexpensive), buns. Unindentified flying chickens has equally or better, and definitely way much more affordable, fried chicken than ko. Speaking of which, won't be surprised if ufc opens up a store in the EV soon, much like Xian.

And agree that the EV is still a great neighborhood for good affordable restaurants and without having to wait in line to be seated (still don't get the line at Cafe Orlin and The Smith esp. for brunch). I digress.

Anonymous said...

REALLY miss Van Daag. Such a great space. We won't see the likes of that pastry basket again I am afraid.

Great interview!

Marty Wombacher said...

Cool interview! I always enjoy Robert's writing in the Village Voice. He started writing for them the year I moved here and I've been reading him from the get-go.

Anonymous said...

I worry more of the affordable old joints are going to be run out by the expensive foodie restaurants.

Uncle Waltie said...

Veselka has been a tourist trap for the last 20 years. Always cracks me up seeing the lines for weekend brunch. I'd rather go up to First Avenue near 12th Street if I crave that kind of cuisine.

Anonymous said...

I'm so glad he didn't mention the Artichoke gang of restaurants. Something about them really rubs me the wrong way and the pizza is absurdly overrated.

Anonymous said...

Always amused to see the Momofuku slander - almost always ill-informed. FTR, there are three: Noodle Bar, Ssam and Ko. It sounds like your beef is with Noodle, as Ko is their bun-less, fine dining chef's counter concept. And dismissing them because of the pork buns is like writing off Luzzo's because of the calamari. The fact is, they're strong local businesses, they serve (generally) incredible food and they don't have the pretense and scenester vibe that people always seem to accuse them of. I'd be perfectly happy if more restaurants were like theirs.

esquared™ said...

Hi, David or David's intern or David's PR...

Oh, I know that Momofuku ko has three restaurants in the area: the Noodle Bar, Ssäm Bar, and ko. I always misspoke as to whenever I refer to Momofuku I always add ko. Seem like the ill-informed ones are the ones who rave for these places since they don't know that one can get similar items from somewhere else for a much affordable price, and exactly because of the trendy, pretense, and scenester vibe they have. And if you think this is and the other comment are slanders, please feel free to sue me. To each his own.

Anonymous said...

Gotta second Sao Mai, Sabor a Mexico, and Downtown Bakery. Having been to almost all restaurants on 1st Ave in the East Village those three are cheap eats standouts.

Anonymous said...

Give me one example of a dish from Ssam or Ko that can be easily bought from somewhere else, besides the pork buns. I'll wait. Keep talking out of your ass. And speaking up for my own opinion and not simply regurgitating the popular contrarian snarky BS that pervades the minds of people like you hardly makes me a PR flack.

LvV said...

I went to Pommes Frites for the first time in months last night! It really is awesome. So good I don't even feel guilty about eating a large all by myself (I couldn't finish though). nommm

esquared™ said...

Now, now. I know Robert Sietsema has Ssäm bar as the best place to eat in the EV. One man's opinion; and just because he said it, that deosn't mean it should be a veneration. If you read at my first comment, I did give an example of an item that can be found somewhere else: the fried chicken at ufc. And I didn't say that your place is the most overrated. I said it's overrated. Doesn't mean it's bad. Just praised highly. Like I said, to each his own. It think it's you that's regurgitating the popular BS opinion that pervades the minds of people who adore Momofuku. What was it about yunnies again? "...always know what to expect and are rarely disappointed...They feel empty and express their aggression through oral rage, ... consuming aggressively. Done here. Enjoy Momufuku. Those places wear new clothes.

Jeff said...

Veselka overrated? Phooey! Biggest loss for the nabe would be long-gone Kiev, but it is a Ukranian nabe, and Veselka is holding the line. I'm happy to see the hate for Momofuku. It really stinks, and is nothing except for having a hip location. I don't know about their other joints, but the single worst meal of my life was at Jewel Bako. Great cheap eats? How 'bout B&H Dairy, Paul's Burgers? Great places with neighborhood history.

EV Grieve said...

@ Jeff

I'll add The Stage to your list too...

Anonymous said...

Good article and I always check him out for reviews. I knew he had to be rocker - he just writes like one which works well within a food column.

Uncle Waltie said...

"... but the single worst meal of my life was at Jewel Bako..."

Never in my life would I set foot in that place. Having to walk by there on a daily basis and looking at the "Danny Meyer of the East Village" parading up and down the street is nauseating enough.

OWR said...

Jeff, why would you say Jewel Bako was so bad? For their prices, it should be the best meal you ever had.

Jill said...

Stromboli was the first place I ever saw a cockroach in a restaurant, around 1979 I would guess. The visual has stayed with me, despite many more sightings in far nicer places, but your first always holds a special place in your heart.

Anonymous said...

"The East Village is one of the 10 greatest restaurant neighborhoods in the city."

HUH??? Let me repeat, HUH?

One of the first things people say, even when I am in other states or countries much less elsewhere in this city, is I love EV becuase it has the best places to eat.

Sammy said...

Stage is probablymy favorite place to eat. Always a great vibe and I always leave satisfied. Side note I have had 2 phenomenal meals at Degastation and one pretty standout one at Jewel Bako. So, don't know about all that jazz.

Anonymous said...

I like Veselka. Sure maybe it was better before they went all Hollywood and overblown ego and whatever but they have tasty chow, soups especially. I've been eating there for over a decade, I know what I'm talking about.

Anonymous said...

MASAK is fantastic. Perfect drinks, perfect food. Delicious spice alongside crispy and cold. It's all so good. And the staff are mad nice.

Pumpkin Patch said...

Did Robert get the new Pudgie's/Nathan's mixed up with a Long John Silver's? For shame.

Anonymous said...

I never ate there- Masak serves foie gras. I can't support that. You know it's banned in California. Animal cruelty. They force feed the duck until it's liver practically explodes, that's when you want to get it and cook it up. It would be better if restaurants brought out the duck just at the point when it's almost dead and let patrons pick at it while it's still moving around a little.

Hey have you heard the news. PS1 MOMA in LIC is now serving horse meet tartare at their new cafe. It's all over the internet.

Anonymous said...

Life Cafe was the worst!! I wanted to like it and tried to like it, but the staff were obnoxious and the food was awful. Xi'an is the best deal in the EV. Try the Spicy Tingly Beef Noodles!
Also, slightly off topic, the staff at East Ninth Espresso on 9th b/t C and D might be the worst in the entire neighborhood. Rude, rude, rude...and the coffee is average at best.

Anonymous said...

He's on point about a lot of places, but completely off about Ramen Setagaya. Along with Rai Rai Ken, it's one of the worst ramen joints around.

Vandaag is a big loss. Loved the place. Was truly new and different but totally in tune with the neighborhood. Had good drinks and brunch too. I totally regret not going there more often.

Anonymous said...

I agree with most of what Sietsema has to say about EV food but...I disagree about Vesulka. No, it's not fine food and, yes, the prices are up somewhat, and, yes, it's overrated, in a way but...it's still probably my favorite restaurant in the city, certainly in the EV because: 1. The food is dependable, fresh, comfort food; 2. The staff, as a rule, is lovely; 3. Certain things are perfect, say, the chicken noodle soup, the pierogis and the cabbage rolls; 4. Over the years, I've seen the Vesulka staff deal with difficult people kindly and the restaurant quietly contributes and participates in even the smallest neighborhood events and fund raisers, etc. They are good neighbors.

That said, yes, it's too bad about Vandaag and, yes, EV food is getting better, and, yes, fuck the chains.

11:30 am said...

Momofuku Ko, in Village Voice's (the very same paper where Sietsema works/writes) top ten most pretentious restaurant.

http://blogs.villagevoice.com/forkintheroad/2011/01/our_10_most_pre.php

Anonymous said...

some places in EV can be overpriced or overrated but there ARE a lot of hidden gems, check out this article that lists some good cheap places to grub

http://voices.yahoo.com/10-best-cheap-eats-yorks-east-village-12116782.html